Capstone Property Inspections

June 9, 2010

Pet Allergens

By Nick Gromicko and Rob London 

Cats and dogs produce allergens that pose a health threat to certain individuals.

Modes of Transmission

Cat dander consists of microscopic pieces of cat skin that have dried, flaked off and become airborne. Shed dander can land on and stick to bedding, curtains, carpeting, and other surfaces, including people’s skin and clothing. It contains Fel D1, a glycoprotein found in the cat’s sebaceous glands, located under their skin, and, to a lesser extent, it is found in cats’ saliva and urine. Fel D1 can cause rapid allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. Unlike cats, the dogs’ allergen, Can F1, is found in higher concentrations in their saliva than in their sebaceous glands.

Facts and Figures

  • More people are allergic to cats than they are to dogs. This may be due to the severity of the allergen Fe D1, or because dogs are generally bathed regularly, whereas cats are not.
  • Between 6 and 10 million Americans are allergic to cats, and approximately one-third of them have cats in their homes.
  • Animal dander, hair, and other organic debris in homes can also result in a significant increase in the level of dust mites, mite feces and other allergenic insect parts.
  • Allergens may be found months or years after a pet has been removed from a house.
  • Pet-borne allergens commonly infiltrate places where pets have never been present, such as schools, workplaces, and other public spaces. Since dander allergens are sticky, they can be transported to these places on the clothing of pet owners.
  • Animal hair, despite popular belief, is not considered to be a significant allergen. However, hair can collect pollen, dust, mold, and other allergens.
  • There are no “non-allergenic” breeds of dogs or cats. Some breeds of both species, however, are believed to be hypoallergenic; anecdotal reports claim that the Siberian, rex and sphynx cat breeds are less likely to provoke an allergic attack than most other cats. Similarly, dog breeds, such as poodles and schnauzers, have been reported to be less allergenic. None of these claims has been validated scientifically.

Cat and Dog Allergy Symptoms

These include:

  • itching;
  • sneezing and congestion;
  • redness, itching, swelling and watering of the eyes;
  • post-nasal drip, itching or hoarseness, and the need to clear the throat often;
  • itchy rashes or hives;
  • itching, plugging or popping in the ears; and
  • coughing, wheezing, tightness in the chest, frequent bronchitis, and a shortness of breath.

How to Test If a Cat or Dog Has Been in a Building

Pets are forbidden by many lease agreements, which may then be violated by tenants who secretly house cats or dogs. Also, cats may visit a residence at night to forage for food or gain shelter. The following detection methods may be used:

  • Smell for the animal. If the cat is an indoor cat, a litter box must have been used somewhere in the building, and they almost always produce an odor. Even after they are removed, the smell from a litter box may linger for quite some time. If a male cat was present in the building and he has urinated on or “marked” any areas, the odor will be very strong.
  • Look for hair. Somewhere in the building, especially where the cat likes to sleep or rest, there will be large amounts of hair.
  • Use a blacklight to check for pet urine.

Cleaning Tips for Buildings Previously Occupied by Cats and Dogs

Inspectors may be asked about pet-allergen cleanup by clients who are looking to buy a home but are concerned about the air quality in their prospective new home. The following suggestions may be offered:

  • Obtain a thorough, professional duct cleaning.
  • Commercially steam-clean, professionally dry-clean, or use very hot water to launder clothing.
  • Wash and use a HEPA vacuum for interior surfaces. Note that ordinary vacuum cleaners, which cause allergenic particles to become airborne, are ineffective and may even worsen the problem for sensitive occupants.

Advice for Clients with Pets

A combination of approaches—medical control of symptoms, good housecleaning and planning—is most likely to succeed in allowing an allergic person to live with pets. For allergic clients who won’t give up their pets, inspectors can pass on the following tips:

  • Take allergy medication. Most fall under one of the following three categories:
    • antihistamines, such as over-the-counter Claritin or Benadryl, or the prescription drugs Allegra or Zyrtec;
    • decongestants, such as OTC Sudafed or prescription Allegra-D; or
    • prescription steroids, such as Flonase or Nasonex sprays.
  • Get allergy shots. These are not always effective, however, and completing treatment can take years.
  • Bathe your pet on a weekly basis. Cats can get used to being bathed, but it’s critical to only use products labeled for them.
  • Keep the pet outdoors as much as possible.
  • Allergic individuals should not hug, pet or kiss their pets.
  • Have your pet spayed or neutered. The allergen produced by a cat is highest in unaltered males and lowest in altered males.
  • Remove clothing worn after grooming or playing with pets.
  • Litter boxes should be placed in an area unconnected to the air supply to the rest of the home, and should be avoided by allergic individuals.
  • Design a cleaning regimen that can substantially reduce those levels, ranging from discarding materials to HEPA-vacuuming to washing certain surfaces.
  • Maintain adequate ventilation.
  • Remove as much carpet from the home as is feasible. The less dander-catching furnishings, such as cloth curtains and blinds, the better.
  • Clean frequently and thoroughly to remove dust and dander, washing articles such as couch covers and pillows, curtains and pet beds.
  • Create an “allergy-free” zone in your home—preferably, the allergic person’s bedroom—and strictly prohibit the pet’s access to it. Consider using impermeable covers for the mattress and pillows.
  • Keep pets off furniture, especially upholstered furniture where dander can be easily transferred.

In summary, irritation and contamination caused by pet allergens can be limited by proper care of their hygiene, homes and owners.

April 12, 2010

Choosing the Right Home Inspector in Temecula, Murrieta. Lake Elsinore and surrounding areas.

Buying a home?  It is probably the most expensive purchase you will ever make.  This is no time to shop for a cheap inspection.  The cost of a home inspection is very small relative to the home being inspected.  The additional cost of hiring an InterNACHI-certified inspector is almost insignificant.

You have recently been crunching the numbers, negotiating offers, adding up closing costs, shopping for mortgages, and trying to get the best deals.  Do not stop now.  Do not let your real estate agent, a “patty-cake” inspector, or anyone else talk you into skimping here.  InterNACHI-certified inspectors perform the best inspections by far.

InterNACHI-certified inspectors earn their fees many times over.  They do more, they deserve more, and, yes, they generally charge a little more.  Do yourself a favor…and pay a little more for the quality inspection you deserve.

Licensing of home inspectors only sets a minimum standard.  Much like being up to code, any less would be illegal.  Imaginary people, children, psychics (who claim to “sense” if a house is OK) and even pets can be home inspectors.  InterNACHI, the International Association of Certified Home Inspectors, front-ends its membership requirements.

InterNACHI inspectors:

  • have to pass InterNACHI’s  Online Inspector Examination  every year.  (This general, not association-specific exam, is open and free to all);
  • have to complete InterNACHI’s online Ethics Obstacle Course. (This open-book Ethics course is open and free to all);
  • have to take InterNACHI’s online Standards of Practice quiz (This open-book Standards of Practice quiz is open and free to all);
  • have to sign and submit an Affidavit;
  • have to adhere to InterNACHI’s Standards of Practice;
  • have to abide by InterNACHI’s Code of Ethics;
  • have to continue seeking skills and education (24 hours per year), per InterNACHI’s Continuing Education policy;
  • have to maintain a Member Online Continuing Education Log (free), per InterNACHI’s Continuing Education policy;
  • have to submit four mock inspections to InterNACHI’s Report Review Committee (free) before performing their first paid home inspection for a client (if the candidate has never performed a fee-paid home inspection previously);
  • within 30 days of joining, have to successfully complete InterNACHI’s comprehensive online Standards of Practice course (free);
  • within 60 days of joining, complete InterNACHI’s comprehensive online Roofing Inspection course (free), including all the quizzes within, and pass its final exam;
  • within three months of membership, apply for a member photo I.D. (free);
  • have to re-take and pass InterNACHI’s Online Inspector Examination again, every year (free);
  • have to attend at least one chapter meeting or educational seminar every two years (reasonable exceptions apply);
  • have access to Inspector’s Quarterly, delivered to their doorstep;
  • have access to InterNACHI’s free Visual Aid Inspection Frames to help them learn;
  • have access to InterNACHI’s free library for improving their inspection skills;
  • have access to InterNACHI’s message board for exchanging information and tips;
  • have access to InterNACHI’s “What’s New” section so they can keep up with the industry;
  • have access to InterNACHI’s specific-topic advisory boards;
  • have access to “Dear InterNACHI” for detailed advice;
  • have access to a time-tested Inspection Agreement, which keeps them (and you) away from lawsuits;
  • have access to InterNACHI’s Report Review/Mentoring service;
  • have to submit passport photos for their membership I.D.;
  • have access to InterNACHI’s free online inspection courses;
  • have to carry E&O insurance (if their state requires it);
  • have access to a real estate agent hold-harmless clause;
  • have access to InterNACHI University;
  • have access to the InterNACHI Mall;
  • have a consumer hotline for their clients;
  • have access to an Arbitration and Dispute Resolution Service; and
  • have access to a Client Satisfaction Survey.

So, the next time you need to refer your clients to home inspectors, make sure they call Capstone Property Inspections, a certified member of InterNACHI.

December 4, 2009

Termite Control in the Home

Wood-destroying insects and other organisms can cause serious problems in the wooden structural components of a house, and may go undetected for a long period of time.

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New Construction

All chemical soil treatments, bait systems, and chemical wood treatment must be approved by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and applied in accordance with the EPA label’s instructions. In some cases, it is not feasible for a builder to arrange for soil treatment. In this regard, the International Residential Code (IRC) by the International Code Council allows a builder to utilize pressure-treated wood as a measure of termite protection. If pressure-treated wood is used, however, it must be used in all framing members up to and including the top plate of the first floor’s level wall. This includes the sub-floor and floor joists of the first floor. The use of pressure-treated wood in only the sill plate is not acceptable. In such cases, the builder must provide the lender with a letter stating that the house is protected from termites by the use of pressure-treated wood. The builder must also provide the home buyer with a one-year warranty against termites. The use of post-construction soil treatment where the chemicals are applied only around the perimeter of the foundation is NOT acceptable in new construction.

Appraiser’s Observations

Appraisers are to observe all areas of the house and other structures/areas within the legal boundaries of the property that have potential for infestation by termites and other wood-destroying organisms, including the bottoms of exterior doors and frames, wood siding in contact with the ground, and crawlspaces. Mud tunnels running from the ground up the side of the house may indicate termite infestation. Observe the eaves and gable vents and wood window sills for indication of the entrance of swarming termites, and note excessive dampness or large areas where the vegetation is dead. Evidence of active termite infestation must be noted.

Termites

Subterranean termites are the most damaging insects of wood. Their presence is hard to notice, and damage usually is found before the termites are

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seen. Prevent infestations because if they occur, they will almost always need professional pest-control service.

Signs of Infestation

Hire a qualified InterNACHI inspector to inspect for termites or other wood-destroying organisms. Generally, the first sign of infestation is the presence of swarming termites on the window or near indoor light. If they are found inside the house, it almost always means that they have infested. Other signs that may be found are termite wings on window sills or in cobwebs, and shelter tubes, which are tunnels constructed by the termites from soil or wood and debris. Usually, wood damage is not found at first, but when it is found, it definitely reveals a termite infestation. Anywhere wood touches soil is a possible entry into a home for termites. Examine wood which sounds dull or hollow when struck by a screwdriver or hammer. Inspect suspected areas with a sharp, pointed tool, such as an ice pick, to find termite galleries or their damage.

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Control

Control measures include reducing the potential infestation, preventing termite entry, and applying chemicals for remedial treatment.

Inspection

Inspect thoroughly to determine if there is an infestation, damage, and/or conditions that could invite a termite attack, or the need for remedial control measures. The tools and equipment needed for an inspection include a flashlight, ice pick or sharp-pointed screwdriver, ladder, and protective clothing. Always hire an InterNACHI inspector for your inspection needs, as they are trained by the highest standards in the inspection industry.

Outdoors

Check the foundation of the house, garage and other buildings for shelter tubes coming from the soil. Look closely around porches, connecting patios, sidewalks, areas near kitchens and bathrooms, and hard-to-see places. Check window and door frames, and where utility services enter the house for termite infestation or wood decay. Also, look behind shrubbery and plants near walls. Pay special attention to areas where earth and wood meet, such as fences, stair carriages and trellises. Open and check any exterior electrical meter or fuse box set into the wall, a common point of infestation.

Indoors

Carefully check all doors, window facings, baseboards, and hardwood flooring. Discoloration or stains on walls or ceilings may mean that water is leaking and can decay wood, and this can aid termite infestation. It is very important to inspect where plumbing and utility pipes enter the foundation and flooring. Also, examine the attic for shelter tubes, water leakage, and wood damage.

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Prevention

Many termite problems can be prevented. The most important thing to do is to deny termites access to food (wood), moisture and shelter. Follow these sugestions:

  • have at least a 2-inch clearance between the house and planter boxes, or soil-filled porches;
  • elimiate all wood-to-soil contact, such as trellises, fence posts, stair casings and doorfacings (they can be put on masonary blocks or on treated wood);
  • separate shrubbery from the house to help make it easier to inspect the foundation line;
  • use wolmanized wood (pressure-treated wood) so that rain will not rot it;
  • seal openings through the foundation;
  • remove wood scraps and stumps from around the foundation;
  • have at least 12 to 18 inches of clearance between floor beams and the soil underneath.

Chemical Treatment

Termite treatment often requires specialized equipment. Therefore, it is recommended that you always use the services of a pest control operator because he is familiar with construction principles and practices, has the necessary equipment, and knows about subterranean termites.

Exterminating Termites

If you think you have a termite infestation in your house, you need to call a structural pest control company to conduct a professional inspection. To find a company, ask friends or coworkers for recommendations, or check the Yellow Pages. If the inspection finds evidence of drywood termites, you have several options, depending on the degree of infestation. Fumigation and heating of the entire house are the only options that ensure eradication in the entire structure. If the infestation is contained in a small area, local or spot control may be effective. However, hidden infestations in other parts of the structure will not be eredicated.

Total (Whole-House) Eradication

For the heat method, pets, plants, and other items that might be damaged by high temperatures must be removed. The house is then covered with tarps, and hot air is blown into the tarp until the inside temperature reaches 140° F to 150° F, and the temperature of the structural timbers reaches 120° F. The time to complete this procedure varies greatly from one structure to another, depending on factors such as the building’s construction and the weather conditions. The procedure may not be practical for structures that cannot be heated evenly.

Local or Spot Control

Local or spot-control methods include the use of pesticides, electric current, extreme cold, localized heat, microwave energy, or any combination of these methods. Local or spot control also includes the removal and replacement of infested structural timber. These methods are intended to remove or kill termites only within the specific targeted area, leaving open the possibility of other undetected infestations within the structure. These treatments are NOT designed for whole-house eradication. Any pest control company that claims whole-house results with local or spot control methods is guilty of false advertising and should be reported.

Local or spot treatment with pesticides involves drilling and injecting pesticides into infested timbers, as well as the topical application of toxic

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chemicals. The electric-current method involves delivering electric energy to targeted infestations. For the extreme cold method, liquid nitrogen is pumped into wall voids adjacent to suspected infestation sites, reducing the area to -20° F. The localized heat method involves heating infested structural timbers to 120° F. The microwave method kills termites by directing microwaves into termite-infested wood.

If you see the following signs in your house, you might have termites:

• sawdust-like droppings;

• dirt or mud-like tubes or trails on the structure;

• damaged wood members (like window sills); and

• swarming winged insects within the structure, especially in the spring or fall.

November 19, 2009

Bathroom Ventilation Ducts and Fans

by Nick Gromicko, Rob London and Kenton Shepard
 
 
Bathroom ventilation systems are designed to exhaust odors and moist air to the home’s exterior. Typical systems consist of a ceiling fan unit connected to a duct that terminates at the roof.
 
Fan Function  
 
 The fan may be controlled in one of several ways:
  • Most are controlled by a conventional wall switch. 
  • A timer switch may be mounted on the wall.
  • A wall-mounted humidistat can be pre-set to turn the fan on and off based on different levels of relative humidity.
Newer fans may be very quiet but work just fine. Older fans may be very noisy or very quiet. If an older fan is quiet, it may not be working well. Inspectors can test for adequate fan airflow with a chemical smoke pencil or a powder puff bottle, but such tests exceed InterNACHI’s Standards of Practice.

Bathroom ventilation fans should be inspected for dust buildup that can impede airflow. Particles of moisture-laden animal dander and lint are attracted to the fan because of its static charge. Inspectors should comment on dirty fan covers.

Ventilation systems should be installed in all bathrooms. This includes bathrooms with windows, since windows will not be opened during the winter in cold climates.
 
Defects
 
The following conditions indicate insufficient bathroom ventilation:
  • moisture stains on walls or ceilings. 
  • corrosion of metal.
  • visible mold on walls or ceilings. 
  • peeling paint or wallpaper.
  • frost on windows.
  • high levels of humidity.
The most common defect related to bathroom ventilation systems is improper termination of the duct. Vents must terminate at the home exterior. The most common improper terminations locations are:
  • mid-level in the attic. These are easy to spot.
  • beneath the insulation. You need to remember to look. The duct may terminate beneath the insulation or there may be no duct installed.
  • beneath attic vents. The duct must terminate at the home exterior, not just beneath it.
Improperly terminated ventilation systems may appear to work fine from inside the bathroom; you have to look in the attic or on the roof. Sometimes poorly-installed ducts will loosen or become disconnected at joints or connections.
 
Ducts which leak or terminate in attics can cause problems from condensation. Warm, moist air will condense on cold attic framing, insulation or other materials. This condition has the potential to cause health or decay problems from mold, or to damage materials such as drywall. Moisture also reduces the effectiveness of thermal insulation.

Mold
 
Perhaps the most serious consequence of an improper ventilation setup is the potential accumulation of mold in attics or crawlspaces. Mold may appear as a fuzzy, thread-like, cobwebby fungus, although it can never be identified with certainty without being lab-tested. Health problems caused by mold are related to high concentrations of spores in indoor air. “Spores” are like microscopic seeds, released by mold fungi when they reproduce. Every home has mold. Moisture levels of about 20% in materials will cause mold colonies to grow. Inhaling mold spores can cause health problems in those with asthma or allergies, and can cause serious or fatal fungal infections in those with lung disease or compromised immune systems.

Mold is impossible to identify visually and must be tested by a lab in order to be confidently labeled. Inspectors should refrain from calling anything “mold” but should refer to anything that appears as mold as a material that “appears to be microbial growth.” Inspectors should include in their report, and in the inspection agreement signed by the client, a disclaimer clearly stating that the General Home Inspection is an inspection for safety and system defects, not a mold inspection.

Decay, which is rot, is also caused by fungi. Incipient (early) decay cannot be seen. By the time decay becomes visible, wood may have lost up to 50% of its strength.

In order to grow, mold fungi require that the following conditions are present:
  • oxygen;
  • temperatures between approximately 45° F and 85° F;
  • food. This includes a wider variety of materials found in homes; and
  • moisture.
If insufficient levels of any of these requirements exist, all mold growth will stop and fungi will go dormant. Most are difficult to actually kill.

Even though mold growth may take place in the attic, mold spores can be sucked into the living areas of a residence by low air pressure. Low air pressure is usually created by the expulsion of household air from exhaust fans in bathrooms, dryers, kitchens and heating equipment.

Improper Ventilation
 
Ventilation ducts must be made from appropriate materials and oriented effectively in order to ensure that stale air is properly exhausted.
 
Ventilation ducts must:
  • terminate outdoors. Ducts should never terminate within the building envelope.
  • contain a screen or louvered (angled) slats at its termination to prevent bird, rodent and insect entry.
  • be as short and straight as possible and avoid turns. Longer ducts allow more time for vapor to condense and also force the exhaust fan to work harder.
  • be insulated, especially in cooler climates. Cold ducts will encourage condensation.
  • protrude at least several inches from the roof.
  • be equipped with a roof termination cap that protects the duct from the elements.
  • be installed to manufacturer’s recommendations.
The following tips are helpful although not required. Ventilation ducts should:
  • be made from inflexible metal, PVC, or other rigid material. Unlike dryer exhaust vents, they should not droop.
  • have smooth interiors. Ridges will encourage vapor to condense, allowing water to back-flow into the exhaust fan or leak through joints onto vulnerable surfaces.

Above all else, a bathroom ventilation fan should be connected to a duct capable of venting water vapor and odors into the outdoors. Mold growth within the bathroom or attic is a clear indication of improper ventilation that must be corrected in order to avoid structural decay and respiratory health issues.

October 20, 2009

Water Heater Expansion Tanks

by Nick Gromicko, Rob London and Kenton Shepard

What is an expansion tank?
An expansion tank is a metal tank connected to a building’s water heating appliance designed to accommodate fluctuations in the volume of a building’s hot water supply system. These fluctuations occur because water expands in volume as it gets hot and loses volume as it cools.

Expanding water volume in a closed system can create dangerously high water pressure. As water is forced into the tank by expansion, it compresses air contained inside of a rubber bladder. Air is used as a cushion because it exerts less force on its container than water, which cannot be compressed.

The function of this bladder is to prevent air from becoming absorbed into the water, a process that could cause the expansion tank to lose its ability to act as a sort of shock absorber. If, over time, the bladder begins to leak some air, a Schrader valve, identical to the fill valve found on bicycle and car tires, can be used to add more air.

What does it look like, inside and out?
Expansion tanks are considerably smaller than water heaters, usually holding about two gallons in residential systems, although tank sizes vary in relation to the water volume of the hot water supply system they serve. The design pressure for which a tank is rated is marked on a label on the tank, commonly 150 pounds per square inch (PSI) for a residential tank.

Inspectors should check that tanks are positioned high enough above the water heater that water will easily drain back down into the water heater tank. It is best positioned near the water heater and may be installed vertically, either above or below the horizontal supply pipe, but can also be positioned horizontally. Horizontally-hung tanks will need additional support to reduce the stress on the copper piping.

The expansion tank should be inspected for proper location and support, corrosion and leakage. Although many jurisdictions now require an expansion tank to be installed at the same time that a water heater is installed, an expansion tank has not always been required in the past and may still not be required in some regions.

Not a Substitute for a Temperature Pressure Relief (TPR) Valve
If water heater controls fail and pressure in the system exceeds 150 PSI, or temperature exceeds 210° F, a temperature and pressure relief valve (TPR valve) installed on the side of the water heater tank will open, safely discharging water from the system. TPR valves are capable of reducing water pressure at a rate greater than the capacity of the water heater to raise it, thus eliminating the possibility that water will become superheated (greater than 212 degrees) and pose a serious threat. The importance of this valve cannot be overstated, and it is crucial that it is examined periodically for rust or corrosion, and the release lever should be exercised monthly by the homeowner, not by the inspector.

If a TPR valve fails to operate when it’s needed, the result can be catastrophic. Pressure will continue to build in the water heater tank as water temperature rises past the boiling point and water becomes superheated. Eventually, pressure in the tank will exceed the ability of the weakest part of the water heater to contain it and the tank will rupture, exposing the superheated water to air and causing an instantaneous and explosive expansion of steam. This situation can propel the water heater like a rocket or make it explode like a bomb, causing extensive property damage, personal injury or death.

In summary, the expansion tank should be inspected for proper location and support, corrosion and leakage. Although not required in every jurisdiction, they are quite crucial to the successful and safe operation of residential potable water systems.

Capstone Property Inspections

October 10, 2009

Why should I get a home inspection ?

Filed under: General Information — Tags: — admin @ 12:34 am

 

In today’s market I have seen buyers getting some amazing deals when purchasing bank owned properties. Many of these homes have been stripped of items such as stove, microwave, dishwasher…etc. And in some homes I have found that even the hot water heater has been removed. However, with the banks selling these homes for such perceived deals, I have noticed some buyers are hesitant to spend the money on a home inspection, thinking that whatever the issues are they will be easily covered or off set by the amazing deal. Perhaps they may feel somewhat intimidated by the bank, thinking they should not rock the boat.

A thorough home inspection goes far beyond the glaring obvious of missing appliances. In fact a good home inspector can mean the difference between living happily ever after in your new home or sinking your life savings into a money pit…only to realize that you have made a horrible decision and now wish that you had never seen the property.

Home inspections, when provided by a qualified inspector who is affiliated with an association such as InterNACHI  will bring to light the overall health of the home. These inspectors are held to high standards of practice, and are qualified to understand all the components of a home, clarifying such questions as; does the home have good solid roof trusses? Are they sagging? How do the truss plates look? Are they tight? How about the electrical components of the home? Are there any circuits double tapped? Are there any open grounds? Items such as attic insulation and duct work, air conditioning unit, Heater, vent systems, gas and gas valves, water system and plumbing. These are items that may not be working properly and are certainly not obvious to most buyers, yet they are the very things that when not working or broken could change your dream home to a nightmare very quickly.

A home inspection covers all the items listed above and much more for a relatively modest fee. Even if the buyer is not planning to negotiate for repairs after the inspection, they will at least have the knowledge to budget for future repairs; which prevents being caught blindsided and unprepared. A home inspection truly is about the cheapest insurance you can buy when purchasing a home.

Remember…Information is your best tool for managing risk!

By David Hubler

Capstone Property Inspections

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