Capstone Property Inspections

June 9, 2010

Pet Allergens

Filed under: General Information, Home Inspections, Home safety, Indoor Pollutants in the home — Tags: , , , — admin @ 2:46 pm 
By Nick Gromicko and Rob London

Cats and dogs produce allergens that pose a health threat to certain individuals.

Modes of Transmission

Cat dander consists of microscopic pieces of cat skin that have dried, flaked off and become airborne. Shed dander can land on and stick to bedding, curtains, carpeting, and other surfaces, including people’s skin and clothing. It contains Fel D1, a glycoprotein found in the cat’s sebaceous glands, located under their skin, and, to a lesser extent, it is found in cats’ saliva and urine. Fel D1 can cause rapid allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. Unlike cats, the dogs’ allergen, Can F1, is found in higher concentrations in their saliva than in their sebaceous glands.

Facts and Figures

  • More people are allergic to cats than they are to dogs. This may be due to the severity of the allergen Fe D1, or because dogs are generally bathed regularly, whereas cats are not.
  • Between 6 and 10 million Americans are allergic to cats, and approximately one-third of them have cats in their homes.
  • Animal dander, hair, and other organic debris in homes can also result in a significant increase in the level of dust mites, mite feces and other allergenic insect parts.
  • Allergens may be found months or years after a pet has been removed from a house.
  • Pet-borne allergens commonly infiltrate places where pets have never been present, such as schools, workplaces, and other public spaces. Since dander allergens are sticky, they can be transported to these places on the clothing of pet owners.
  • Animal hair, despite popular belief, is not considered to be a significant allergen. However, hair can collect pollen, dust, mold, and other allergens.
  • There are no “non-allergenic” breeds of dogs or cats. Some breeds of both species, however, are believed to be hypoallergenic; anecdotal reports claim that the Siberian, rex and sphynx cat breeds are less likely to provoke an allergic attack than most other cats. Similarly, dog breeds, such as poodles and schnauzers, have been reported to be less allergenic. None of these claims has been validated scientifically.

Cat and Dog Allergy Symptoms

These include:

  • itching;
  • sneezing and congestion;
  • redness, itching, swelling and watering of the eyes;
  • post-nasal drip, itching or hoarseness, and the need to clear the throat often;
  • itchy rashes or hives;
  • itching, plugging or popping in the ears; and
  • coughing, wheezing, tightness in the chest, frequent bronchitis, and a shortness of breath.

How to Test If a Cat or Dog Has Been in a Building

Pets are forbidden by many lease agreements, which may then be violated by tenants who secretly house cats or dogs. Also, cats may visit a residence at night to forage for food or gain shelter. The following detection methods may be used:

  • Smell for the animal. If the cat is an indoor cat, a litter box must have been used somewhere in the building, and they almost always produce an odor. Even after they are removed, the smell from a litter box may linger for quite some time. If a male cat was present in the building and he has urinated on or “marked” any areas, the odor will be very strong.
  • Look for hair. Somewhere in the building, especially where the cat likes to sleep or rest, there will be large amounts of hair.
  • Use a blacklight to check for pet urine.

Cleaning Tips for Buildings Previously Occupied by Cats and Dogs

Inspectors may be asked about pet-allergen cleanup by clients who are looking to buy a home but are concerned about the air quality in their prospective new home. The following suggestions may be offered:

  • Obtain a thorough, professional duct cleaning.
  • Commercially steam-clean, professionally dry-clean, or use very hot water to launder clothing.
  • Wash and use a HEPA vacuum for interior surfaces. Note that ordinary vacuum cleaners, which cause allergenic particles to become airborne, are ineffective and may even worsen the problem for sensitive occupants.

Advice for Clients with Pets

A combination of approaches—medical control of symptoms, good housecleaning and planning—is most likely to succeed in allowing an allergic person to live with pets. For allergic clients who won’t give up their pets, inspectors can pass on the following tips:

  • Take allergy medication. Most fall under one of the following three categories:
    • antihistamines, such as over-the-counter Claritin or Benadryl, or the prescription drugs Allegra or Zyrtec;
    • decongestants, such as OTC Sudafed or prescription Allegra-D; or
    • prescription steroids, such as Flonase or Nasonex sprays.
  • Get allergy shots. These are not always effective, however, and completing treatment can take years.
  • Bathe your pet on a weekly basis. Cats can get used to being bathed, but it’s critical to only use products labeled for them.
  • Keep the pet outdoors as much as possible.
  • Allergic individuals should not hug, pet or kiss their pets.
  • Have your pet spayed or neutered. The allergen produced by a cat is highest in unaltered males and lowest in altered males.
  • Remove clothing worn after grooming or playing with pets.
  • Litter boxes should be placed in an area unconnected to the air supply to the rest of the home, and should be avoided by allergic individuals.
  • Design a cleaning regimen that can substantially reduce those levels, ranging from discarding materials to HEPA-vacuuming to washing certain surfaces.
  • Maintain adequate ventilation.
  • Remove as much carpet from the home as is feasible. The less dander-catching furnishings, such as cloth curtains and blinds, the better.
  • Clean frequently and thoroughly to remove dust and dander, washing articles such as couch covers and pillows, curtains and pet beds.
  • Create an “allergy-free” zone in your home—preferably, the allergic person’s bedroom—and strictly prohibit the pet’s access to it. Consider using impermeable covers for the mattress and pillows.
  • Keep pets off furniture, especially upholstered furniture where dander can be easily transferred.

In summary, irritation and contamination caused by pet allergens can be limited by proper care of their hygiene, homes and owners.

April 12, 2010

Choosing the Right Home Inspector in Temecula, Murrieta. Lake Elsinore and surrounding areas.

Filed under: General Information, Home Inspections — Tags: , , , , — admin @ 3:25 pm

Buying a home?  It is probably the most expensive purchase you will ever make.  This is no time to shop for a cheap inspection.  The cost of a home inspection is very small relative to the home being inspected.  The additional cost of hiring an InterNACHI-certified inspector is almost insignificant.

You have recently been crunching the numbers, negotiating offers, adding up closing costs, shopping for mortgages, and trying to get the best deals.  Do not stop now.  Do not let your real estate agent, a “patty-cake” inspector, or anyone else talk you into skimping here.  InterNACHI-certified inspectors perform the best inspections by far.

InterNACHI-certified inspectors earn their fees many times over.  They do more, they deserve more, and, yes, they generally charge a little more.  Do yourself a favor…and pay a little more for the quality inspection you deserve.

Licensing of home inspectors only sets a minimum standard.  Much like being up to code, any less would be illegal.  Imaginary people, children, psychics (who claim to “sense” if a house is OK) and even pets can be home inspectors.  InterNACHI, the International Association of Certified Home Inspectors, front-ends its membership requirements.

InterNACHI inspectors:

  • have to pass InterNACHI’s  Online Inspector Examination  every year.  (This general, not association-specific exam, is open and free to all);
  • have to complete InterNACHI’s online Ethics Obstacle Course. (This open-book Ethics course is open and free to all);
  • have to take InterNACHI’s online Standards of Practice quiz (This open-book Standards of Practice quiz is open and free to all);
  • have to sign and submit an Affidavit;
  • have to adhere to InterNACHI’s Standards of Practice;
  • have to abide by InterNACHI’s Code of Ethics;
  • have to continue seeking skills and education (24 hours per year), per InterNACHI’s Continuing Education policy;
  • have to maintain a Member Online Continuing Education Log (free), per InterNACHI’s Continuing Education policy;
  • have to submit four mock inspections to InterNACHI’s Report Review Committee (free) before performing their first paid home inspection for a client (if the candidate has never performed a fee-paid home inspection previously);
  • within 30 days of joining, have to successfully complete InterNACHI’s comprehensive online Standards of Practice course (free);
  • within 60 days of joining, complete InterNACHI’s comprehensive online Roofing Inspection course (free), including all the quizzes within, and pass its final exam;
  • within three months of membership, apply for a member photo I.D. (free);
  • have to re-take and pass InterNACHI’s Online Inspector Examination again, every year (free);
  • have to attend at least one chapter meeting or educational seminar every two years (reasonable exceptions apply);
  • have access to Inspector’s Quarterly, delivered to their doorstep;
  • have access to InterNACHI’s free Visual Aid Inspection Frames to help them learn;
  • have access to InterNACHI’s free library for improving their inspection skills;
  • have access to InterNACHI’s message board for exchanging information and tips;
  • have access to InterNACHI’s “What’s New” section so they can keep up with the industry;
  • have access to InterNACHI’s specific-topic advisory boards;
  • have access to “Dear InterNACHI” for detailed advice;
  • have access to a time-tested Inspection Agreement, which keeps them (and you) away from lawsuits;
  • have access to InterNACHI’s Report Review/Mentoring service;
  • have to submit passport photos for their membership I.D.;
  • have access to InterNACHI’s free online inspection courses;
  • have to carry E&O insurance (if their state requires it);
  • have access to a real estate agent hold-harmless clause;
  • have access to InterNACHI University;
  • have access to the InterNACHI Mall;
  • have a consumer hotline for their clients;
  • have access to an Arbitration and Dispute Resolution Service; and
  • have access to a Client Satisfaction Survey.

So, the next time you need to refer your clients to home inspectors, make sure they call Capstone Property Inspections, a certified member of InterNACHI.

January 5, 2010

10 Easy Ways to Save Energy in your Home

Filed under: General Information, Home Energy Savings, Home Inspections — Tags: , , , — admin @ 1:13 am
By Nick Gromicko, Ben Gromicko, Rob London and Kenton Shepard
Murrieta Home Inspection. Capstone Property Inspections
Temecula Home Inspection

Most people don’t know how easy it is to make their homes run on less energy, and here at InterNACHI, we want to change that. Drastic reductions in heating, cooling and electricity costs can be accomplished through very simple changes, most of which homeowners can do themselves. Of course, for homeowners who want their homes to take advantage of the most up-to-date knowledge and systems in home energy-efficiency, InterNACHI energy auditors can perform in-depth testing to find the best energy solutions for your particular home.

Why make your home more energy efficient? Here are a few good reasons:

  • Federal, state, utility and local jurisdictions’ financial incentives, such as tax breaks, are very advantageous in most parts of the U.S.
  • It saves money. It costs less to power a home that has been converted to be more energy-efficient.
  • It increases indoor comfort levels.
  • It reduces our impact on climate change. Many scientists now believe that excessive energy consumption contributes significantly to global warming.
  • It reduces pollution. Conventional power production introduces pollutants that find their way into the air, soil and water supplies.

1. Find better ways to heat and cool your house.

As much as half of the energy used in homes goes toward heating and cooling. The following are a few ways that energy bills can be reduced through adjustments to the heating and cooling systems:

  • Install a ceiling fan. Ceiling fans can be used in place of air conditioners, which require a large amount of energy.
  • Periodically replace air filters in air conditioners and heaters.
  • Set thermostats to an appropriate temperature. Specifically, they should be turned down at night and when no one is home. In most homes, about 2% of the heating bill will be saved for each degree that the thermostat is lowered for at least eight hours each day. Turning down the thermostat from 75° F to 70°F, for example, saves about 10% on heating costs.
  • Install a programmable thermostat. A programmable thermostat saves money by allowing heating and cooling appliances to be automatically turned down during times that no one is home and at night. Programmable thermostats contain no mercury and, in some climate zones, can save up to $150 per year in energy costs.
  • Install a wood stove or a pellet stove. These are more efficient sources of heat than furnaces.
  • At night, curtains drawn over windows will better insulate the room.

2. Install a tankless water heater.

Demand water heaters (tankless or instantaneous) provide hot water only as it is needed. They don’t produce the standby energy losses associated with storage water heaters, which will save on energy costs. Demand water heaters heat water directly without the use of a storage tank. Therefore, they avoid the standby heat losses required by traditional storage water heaters. When a hot water tap is turned on, cold water travels through a pipe into the unit. Either a gas burner or an electric element heats the water. As a result, demand water heaters deliver a constant supply of hot water. You don’t need to wait for a storage tank to fill up with enough hot water.

3. Replace incandescent lights.

The average household dedicates 11% of its energy budget to lighting. Traditional incandescent lights convert approximately only 10% of the energy they consume into light, while the rest becomes heat. The use of new lighting technologies, such as light-emitting diodes (LEDs) and compact fluorescent lamps (CFL), can reduce energy use required by lighting by 50% to 75%. Advances in lighting controls offer further energy savings by reducing the amount of time lights are on but not being used. Here are some facts about CFLs and LEDs:

  • CFLs use 75% less energy and last about 10 times longer than traditional incandescent bulbs.
  • LEDs last even longer than CFLs and consume less energy.
  • LEDs have no moving parts and, unlike CFLs, they contain no mercury.

4. Seal and insulate your home.

Sealing and insulating your home is one of the most cost-effective ways to make a home more comfortable and energy efficient -– and you can do it yourself. A tightly sealed home can improve comfort and indoor air quality while reducing utility bills. An InterNACHI energy auditor can be hired to assess envelope leakage and recommend fixes that will dramatically increase comfort and energy savings.

The following are some common places where leakage may occur:

  • electrical outlets;
  • mail slots;
  • around pipes and wires;
  • wall- or window-mounted air conditioners;
  • attic hatches;
  • fireplace dampers;
  • weatherstripping around doors;
  • baseboards;
  • window frames; and
  • switch plates.

Because hot air rises, air leaks are most likely to occur in the attic. Homeowners can perform a variety of repairs and maintenance to their attics that save them money on cooling and heating, such as:

  • Plug the large holes. Locations in the attic where leakage is most likely to be the greatest are where walls meet the attic floor, behind and under attic knee walls, and in dropped-ceiling areas.
  • Seal the small holes. You can easily do this by looking for areas where the insulation is darkened. Darkened insulation is a result of dusty interior air being filtered by insulation before leaking through small holes in the building envelope. In cold weather, you may see frosty areas in the insulation caused by warm, moist air condensing and then freezing as it hits the cold attic air. In warmer weather, you’ll find water staining in these same areas. Use expanding foam or caulk to seal the openings around plumbing vent pipes and electrical wires. Cover the areas with insulation after the caulk is dry.
  • Seal up the attic access panel with weatherstripping. You can cut a piece of fiberglass or rigid foam board insulation the same size as the attic hatch and glue it to the back of the attic access panel. If you have pull-down attic stairs or an attic door, these should be sealed in a similar manner.

5. Install efficient shower heads and toilets.

The following systems can be installed to conserve water usage in homes:

  • low-flow shower heads. They are available in different flow rates, and some have a pause button which shuts off the water while the bather lathers up;
  • low-flow toilets. Toilets consume 30% to 40% of the total water used in homes, making them the biggest water users. Replacing an older 3.5-gallon toilet with a modern, low-flow 1.6-gallon toilet can reduce usage an average of two gallons-per-flush (GPF), saving 12,000 gallons of water per year. Low-flow toilets usually have “1.6 GPF” marked on the bowl behind the seat or inside the tank;
  • vacuum-assist toilets. These types of toilets have a vacuum chamber which uses a siphon action to suck air from the trap beneath the bowl, allowing it to quickly fill with water to clear waste. Vacuum toilets are relatively quiet; and
  • dual-flush toilets. Dual-flush toilets have been used in Europe and Australia for years, and are now gaining in popularity in the U.S. Dual-flush toilets let you choose between a 1-gallon (or less) flush for liquid waste, and a 1.6-gallon flush for solid waste. Dual-flush 1.6-GPF toilets reduce water consumption by an additional 30%.

6. Use appliances and electronics responsibly.

Appliances and electronics account for about 20% of household energy bills in a typical U.S. home. The following are tips that will reduce the required energy of electronics and appliances:

  • Refrigerators and freezers should not be located near the stove, dishwasher or heat vents, or exposed to direct sunlight. Exposure to warm areas will force them to use more energy to remain cool.
  • Computers should be shut off when not in use. If unattended computers must be left on, their monitors should be shut off. According to some studies, computers account for approximately 3% of all energy consumption in the United States.
  • Use efficient “Energy Star”-rated appliances and electronics. These devices, approved by the DOE and the EPA’s Energy Star Program, include TVs, home theater systems, DVD players, CD players, receivers, speakers and more. According to the EPA, if just 10% of homes used energy-efficient appliances, it would reduce carbon emissions by the equivalent of 1.7 million acres of trees.
  • Chargers, such as those for laptops and cell phones, consume energy when they are plugged in. When they are not connected to electronics, chargers should be unplugged.
  • Laptop computers consume considerably less electricity than desktop computers.

7. Install daylighting as an alternative to electrical lighting.

Daylighting is the practice of using natural light to illuminate the home’s interior. It can be achieved using the following approaches:

  • skylights. It’s important that they be double-pane or they may not be cost-effective. Flashing skylights correctly is key to avoiding leaks;
  • lightshelves. Light shelves are passive devices designed to bounce light deep into a building. They may be interior or exterior. Light shelves can introduce light into a space up to 2½ times the distance from the floor to the top of the window, and advanced light shelves may introduce four times that amount;
  • clerestory windows.  Clerestory windows are short, wide windows set high on the wall. Protected from the summer sun by the roof overhang, they allow winter sun to shine through for natural lighting and warmth; and
  • light tubes.  Light tubes use a special lens designed to amplify low-level light and reduce light intensity from the midday sun. Sunlight is channeled through a tube coated with a highly reflective material, then enters the living space through a diffuser designed to distribute light evenly.

8. Insulate windows and doors.

About one-third of the home’s total heat loss usually occurs through windows and doors. The following are ways to reduce energy lost through windows and doors:

  • Seal all window edges and cracks with rope caulk. This is the cheapest and simplest option.
  • Windows can be weatherstripped with a special lining that is inserted between the window and the frame. For doors, weatherstrip around the whole perimeter to ensure a tight seal when closed. Install quality door sweeps on the bottom of the doors, if they aren’t already in place.
  • Install storm windows at windows with only single panes. A removable glass frame can be installed over an existing window.
  • If existing windows have rotted or damaged wood, cracked glass, missing putty, poorly fitting sashes, or locks that don’t work, they should be repaired or replaced.

9. Cook smart.

An enormous amount of energy is wasted while cooking. The following recommendations and statistics illustrate less wasteful ways of cooking:

  • Convection ovens are more efficient that conventional ovens. They use fans to force hot air to circulate more evenly, thereby allowing food to be cooked at a lower temperature. Convection ovens use approximately 20% less electricity than conventional ovens.
  • Microwave ovens consume approximately 80% less energy than conventional ovens.
  • Pans should be placed on the correctly-sized heating element or flame.
  • Lids make food heat more quickly than pans that do not have lids.
  • Pressure cookers reduce cooking time dramatically.
  • When using conventional ovens, food should be placed on the top rack. The top rack is hotter and will cook food faster.

10. Change the way you wash your clothes.

  • Do not use the “half load” setting on your washer. Wait until you have a full load of clothes, as the “half load” setting saves less than half of the water and energy.
  • Avoid using high-temperature settings when clothes are not that dirty. Water that is 140 degrees uses far more energy than 103 degrees for a “warm” setting, but 140 degrees isn’t that much better for washing purposes.
  • Clean the lint trap before you use the dryer, every time. Not only is excess lint a fire hazard, but it will prolong the amount of time required for your clothes to dry.
  • If possible, air-dry your clothes on lines and racks.
  • Spin-dry or wring clothes out before putting them into a dryer.

Homeowners who take the initiative to make these changes usually discover that the energy savings are more than worth the effort. However, you should consider that inspectors can make this process much easier and perform a more comprehensive assessment of energy saving potential than you can. For a qualified inspector, visit www.InspectorSeek.com. Ask the inspector if they are trained in performing energy inspections.

December 4, 2009

Termite Control in the Home

Filed under: General Information, Home Inspections — Tags: , , , , — admin @ 12:09 am

Wood-destroying insects and other organisms can cause serious problems in the wooden structural components of a house, and may go undetected for a long period of time.

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New Construction

All chemical soil treatments, bait systems, and chemical wood treatment must be approved by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and applied in accordance with the EPA label’s instructions. In some cases, it is not feasible for a builder to arrange for soil treatment. In this regard, the International Residential Code (IRC) by the International Code Council allows a builder to utilize pressure-treated wood as a measure of termite protection. If pressure-treated wood is used, however, it must be used in all framing members up to and including the top plate of the first floor’s level wall. This includes the sub-floor and floor joists of the first floor. The use of pressure-treated wood in only the sill plate is not acceptable. In such cases, the builder must provide the lender with a letter stating that the house is protected from termites by the use of pressure-treated wood. The builder must also provide the home buyer with a one-year warranty against termites. The use of post-construction soil treatment where the chemicals are applied only around the perimeter of the foundation is NOT acceptable in new construction.

Appraiser’s Observations

Appraisers are to observe all areas of the house and other structures/areas within the legal boundaries of the property that have potential for infestation by termites and other wood-destroying organisms, including the bottoms of exterior doors and frames, wood siding in contact with the ground, and crawlspaces. Mud tunnels running from the ground up the side of the house may indicate termite infestation. Observe the eaves and gable vents and wood window sills for indication of the entrance of swarming termites, and note excessive dampness or large areas where the vegetation is dead. Evidence of active termite infestation must be noted.

Termites

Subterranean termites are the most damaging insects of wood. Their presence is hard to notice, and damage usually is found before the termites are

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seen. Prevent infestations because if they occur, they will almost always need professional pest-control service.

Signs of Infestation

Hire a qualified InterNACHI inspector to inspect for termites or other wood-destroying organisms. Generally, the first sign of infestation is the presence of swarming termites on the window or near indoor light. If they are found inside the house, it almost always means that they have infested. Other signs that may be found are termite wings on window sills or in cobwebs, and shelter tubes, which are tunnels constructed by the termites from soil or wood and debris. Usually, wood damage is not found at first, but when it is found, it definitely reveals a termite infestation. Anywhere wood touches soil is a possible entry into a home for termites. Examine wood which sounds dull or hollow when struck by a screwdriver or hammer. Inspect suspected areas with a sharp, pointed tool, such as an ice pick, to find termite galleries or their damage.

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Control

Control measures include reducing the potential infestation, preventing termite entry, and applying chemicals for remedial treatment.

Inspection

Inspect thoroughly to determine if there is an infestation, damage, and/or conditions that could invite a termite attack, or the need for remedial control measures. The tools and equipment needed for an inspection include a flashlight, ice pick or sharp-pointed screwdriver, ladder, and protective clothing. Always hire an InterNACHI inspector for your inspection needs, as they are trained by the highest standards in the inspection industry.

Outdoors

Check the foundation of the house, garage and other buildings for shelter tubes coming from the soil. Look closely around porches, connecting patios, sidewalks, areas near kitchens and bathrooms, and hard-to-see places. Check window and door frames, and where utility services enter the house for termite infestation or wood decay. Also, look behind shrubbery and plants near walls. Pay special attention to areas where earth and wood meet, such as fences, stair carriages and trellises. Open and check any exterior electrical meter or fuse box set into the wall, a common point of infestation.

Indoors

Carefully check all doors, window facings, baseboards, and hardwood flooring. Discoloration or stains on walls or ceilings may mean that water is leaking and can decay wood, and this can aid termite infestation. It is very important to inspect where plumbing and utility pipes enter the foundation and flooring. Also, examine the attic for shelter tubes, water leakage, and wood damage.

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Prevention

Many termite problems can be prevented. The most important thing to do is to deny termites access to food (wood), moisture and shelter. Follow these sugestions:

  • have at least a 2-inch clearance between the house and planter boxes, or soil-filled porches;
  • elimiate all wood-to-soil contact, such as trellises, fence posts, stair casings and doorfacings (they can be put on masonary blocks or on treated wood);
  • separate shrubbery from the house to help make it easier to inspect the foundation line;
  • use wolmanized wood (pressure-treated wood) so that rain will not rot it;
  • seal openings through the foundation;
  • remove wood scraps and stumps from around the foundation;
  • have at least 12 to 18 inches of clearance between floor beams and the soil underneath.

Chemical Treatment

Termite treatment often requires specialized equipment. Therefore, it is recommended that you always use the services of a pest control operator because he is familiar with construction principles and practices, has the necessary equipment, and knows about subterranean termites.

Exterminating Termites

If you think you have a termite infestation in your house, you need to call a structural pest control company to conduct a professional inspection. To find a company, ask friends or coworkers for recommendations, or check the Yellow Pages. If the inspection finds evidence of drywood termites, you have several options, depending on the degree of infestation. Fumigation and heating of the entire house are the only options that ensure eradication in the entire structure. If the infestation is contained in a small area, local or spot control may be effective. However, hidden infestations in other parts of the structure will not be eredicated.

Total (Whole-House) Eradication

For the heat method, pets, plants, and other items that might be damaged by high temperatures must be removed. The house is then covered with tarps, and hot air is blown into the tarp until the inside temperature reaches 140° F to 150° F, and the temperature of the structural timbers reaches 120° F. The time to complete this procedure varies greatly from one structure to another, depending on factors such as the building’s construction and the weather conditions. The procedure may not be practical for structures that cannot be heated evenly.

Local or Spot Control

Local or spot-control methods include the use of pesticides, electric current, extreme cold, localized heat, microwave energy, or any combination of these methods. Local or spot control also includes the removal and replacement of infested structural timber. These methods are intended to remove or kill termites only within the specific targeted area, leaving open the possibility of other undetected infestations within the structure. These treatments are NOT designed for whole-house eradication. Any pest control company that claims whole-house results with local or spot control methods is guilty of false advertising and should be reported.

Local or spot treatment with pesticides involves drilling and injecting pesticides into infested timbers, as well as the topical application of toxic

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chemicals. The electric-current method involves delivering electric energy to targeted infestations. For the extreme cold method, liquid nitrogen is pumped into wall voids adjacent to suspected infestation sites, reducing the area to -20° F. The localized heat method involves heating infested structural timbers to 120° F. The microwave method kills termites by directing microwaves into termite-infested wood.

If you see the following signs in your house, you might have termites:

• sawdust-like droppings;

• dirt or mud-like tubes or trails on the structure;

• damaged wood members (like window sills); and

• swarming winged insects within the structure, especially in the spring or fall.

November 23, 2009

Attic Ventilation

Filed under: General Information, Home Inspections — Tags: , , — admin @ 9:41 pm

One of the most common problems I encounter in the majority of my home inspections is the lack of attic ventilation. Attic / roof ventilation is probably the least understood requirement necessary for achieving a healthy home in Massachusetts. Most homeowners do not understand the full meaning and benefits of proper attic ventilation. There’s also a lack of understanding in how to properly size and position roof vents for an adequate air flow under the roof cavity.

Proper ventilation is absolutely necessary and vital, not only to the health and well being of every home, but also to every home’s occupant. Anyone who has been in an attic knows that attics get very hot! If the heat in the attic is allowed to sit there and not ventilate, it will conduct heat into the house, or, at the very least, prevent the heat in the house and attic cavity from escaping. Without adequate ventilation, your home will encounter problems such as rapid shingle deterioration (from melting), mold build-up throughout the attic, wood rot and delaminating sheathing, mildew, peeling exterior paint, rusty nails, energy losses, and many other problems that are often the direct result of inadequate attic ventilation. Wood boring insects such as Termites and Carpenter Ants are attracted to moisture buildup that is often caused by any inadequate ventilation.

Ironically, improving ventilation conditions can often be accomplished with low to moderate cost expenditures. Once my clients understand the problems associated with poor ventilation, there is usually a willingness to make these improvements as soon as they move into their new home. When there is significant damage from poor ventilation such as curling of the roofing shingles and delaminated roof sheathing with substantial mold or mildew buildup, improving the ventilation becomes secondary to repairing the damage first.

The most economical answer to this problem is to ventilate the attic. Moving air through the attic will absolutely reduce the temperature in this cavity. Most homes have passive attic ventilation in the form of a ridge vent at the peak of the roof, soffit vents in the eaves and gable vents at the top outside gable ends of the home, or some combination of these vents. Turbine and or roof vents (passive vents that penetrate the roof) are often used as a simple fix for older roofs with inadequate ventilation. The problem with passive vents is that they require some driving force – wind or temperature differential (hot air rising) – to move the hot air within the attic. Usually the hottest days of the year are the stillest, with little or no wind. Temperature differential doesn’t have much energy, so it is slow. Just when you need venting the most, the vents work least effectively. There is also the installation problem. If your roof cavity was designed without sufficient attic ventilation, adding additional passive vents may be impractical.

There are two types of air vents that I will always highly recommend: 1.) inlet air vents, also known as Soffit vents and 2.) outlet air vents, also known as Ridge vents. Having only one or the other type of vent is the equivalent of having neither vent at all. Therefore, to obtain proper attic/roof ventilation, both types of vents must be present, and in equal amounts of net free air flow.

Another very important detail to these particular vents is to make sure there are fire-proof Styrofoam baffles properly installed between the insulation and the roof sheathing. These baffles will help maintain the air flow by preventing the insulation from blocking this vent area. See “STYROFOAM BAFFLE“.

1.) SOFFIT VENT (Allows outside air to enter the attic/roof cavity)

2.) RIDGE VENT (allows air to properly exit attic/roof cavity)

PROPER INSTALLATION OF THESE VENTS AND BAFFLES WILL RESULT IN PERFECT AIR FLOW THROUGHOUT THE ATTIC/ROOF CAVITY.

If your house does not have the soffits or overhangs and your roof stops at the outside wall, you can vent the lower edge of your roof with a “starter” vent also known as a “drip-edge vent”. This will perform just as well as a soffit vent, but remember to install the baffles as shown above

DRIP-EDGE VENT

 

November 10, 2009

Safety Guidelines for Home Pools

Filed under: General Information — Tags: , , , — admin @ 7:43 pm

Swimming pools should always be happy places. Unfortunately, each year thousands of American families confront swimming pool tragedies, drownings and near-drownings of young children. At InterNACHI, we want to prevent these tragedies. These are guidelines for pool barriers that can help prevent most submersion incidents involving young children. These guidelines are not intended as the sole method to minimize pool drowning of young children, but include helpful safety tips for safer pools.

Each year, hundreds of young children die and thousands come close to death due to submersion in residential swimming pools. The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) has estimated that each year, about 300 children under the age of 5 drown in swimming pools. Hospital emergency-room treatment is required for more than 2,000 children under 5 who were submerged in residential pools. The CPSC did an extensive study of swimming pool accidents, both fatal drownings and near-fatal submersions, in California, Arizona and Florida — states in which home swimming pools are very popular and used during much of the year.

In California, Arizona and Florida, drowning was the leading cause of accidental death in and around the home for children under the age of 5.
Seventy-five percent of the children involved in swimming pool submersion or drowning accidents were between 1 and 3 years old.
Boys between 1 and 3 were the most likely victims of fatal drownings and near-fatal submersions in residential swimming pools.
Most of the victims were in the presence of one or both parents when the swimming pool accident occurred.
Nearly half of the child victims were last seen in the house before the pool accident occurred. In addition, 23% of the accident victims were last seen on the porch or patio, or in the yard.
This means that 69% of the children who became victims in swimming pool accidents were not expected to be in or at the pool, but were found drowned or submerged in the water.
Sixty-five percent of the accidents occurred in a pool owned by the victim’s immediate family, and 33% of the accidents occurred in pools owned by relatives or friends.
Fewer than 2% of the pool accidents were the result of children trespassing on property where they didn’t live or belong.
Seventy-seven percent of the swimming pool accident victims had been missing for five minutes or less when they were found in the pool, drowned or submerged.

The speed with which swimming pool drownings and submersions can occur is a special concern: by the time a child’s absence is noted, the child may have drowned. Anyone who has cared for a toddler knows how fast young children can move. Toddlers are inquisitive and impulsive, and lack a realistic sense of danger. These behaviors, coupled with a child’s ability to move quickly and unpredictably, make swimming pools particularly hazardous for households with young children.

Swimming pool drownings of young children have another particularly insidious feature: these are silent deaths. It is unlikely that splashing or screaming will occur to alert a parent or caregiver that a child is in trouble. The best way to reduce child drownings in residential pools is for pool owners to construct and maintain barriers that prevent young children from gaining access to pools. However, there are no substitutes for diligent supervision.

Why the Swimming Pool Guidelines Were Developed

Young child can get over a pool barrier if the barrier is too low, or if the barrier has handholds or footholds for a child to use for climbing. The guidelines recommend that the top of a pool barrier be at least 48 inches above grade, measured on the side of the barrier which faces away from the swimming pool. Eliminating handholds and footholds, and minimizing the size of openings in a barrier’s construction, can prevent inquisitive children from climbing pool barriers.

For a solid barrier, no indentations or protrusions should be present, other than normal construction tolerances and masonry joints. For a barrier (fence) made up of horizontal and vertical members, if the distance between the tops of the horizontal members is less than 45 inches, the horizontal members should be on the swimming pool-side of the fence. The spacing of the vertical members should not exceed 1-3/4 inches. This size is based on the foot-width of a young child, and is intended to reduce the potential for a child to gain a foothold. If there are any decorative cutouts in the fence, the space within the cutouts should not exceed 1-3/4 inches.

The definition of pool includes spas and hot tubs. The swimming pool-barrier guidelines, therefore, apply to these structures, as well as to conventional swimming pools.

How to Prevent a Child from Getting OVER a Pool Barrier

A successful pool barrier prevents a child from getting OVER, UNDER or THROUGH, and keeps the child from gaining access to the pool except when supervising adults are present.

The Swimming Pool-Barrier Guidelines

If the distance between the tops of the horizontal members is more than 45 inches, the horizontal members can be on the side of the fence facing away from the pool. The spacing between vertical members should not exceed 4 inches. This size is based on the head-breadth and chest depth of a young child, and is intended to prevent a child from passing through an opening. Again, if there are any decorative cutouts in the fence, the space within the cutouts should not exceed 1-3/4 inches.

For a chain-link fence, the mesh size should not exceed 1-1/4 inches square, unless slats fastened at the top or bottom of the fence are used to reduce mesh openings to no more than 1-3/4 inches.

For a fence made up of diagonal members (lattice work), the maximum opening in the lattice should not exceed 1-3/4 inches.

Above-ground pools should have barriers. The pool structure itself can sometimes serves as a barrier, or a barrier can be mounted on top of the pool structure. Then, there are two possible ways to prevent young children from climbing up into an above-ground pool. The steps or ladder can be designed to be secured, locked or removed to prevent access, or the steps or ladder can be surrounded by a barrier, such as those described above. For any pool barrier, the maximum clearance at the bottom of the barrier should not exceed 4 inches above grade, when the measurement is done on the side of the barrier facing away from the pool.

If an above-ground pool has a barrier on the top of the pool, the maximum vertical clearance between the top of the pool and the bottom of the barrier should not exceed 4 inches. Preventing a child from getting through a pool barrier can be done by restricting the sizes of openings in a barrier, and by using self-closing and self-latching gates.

To prevent a young child from getting through a fence or other barrier, all openings should be small enough so that a 4-inch diameter sphere cannot pass through. This size is based on the head- breadth and chest-depth of a young child.

Gates
There are two kinds of gates which might be found on a residential property. Both can play a part in the design of a swimming pool barrier.

Pedestrian gates are the gates people walk through. Swimming pool barriers should be equipped with a gate or gates which restrict access to the pool. A locking device should be included in the gate’s design. Gates should open out from the pool and should be self-closing and self-latching. If a gate is properly designed, even if the gate is not completely latched, a young child pushing on the gate in order to enter the pool area will at least close the gate and may actually engage the latch. When the release mechanism of the self-latching device is less than 54 inches from the bottom of the gate, the release mechanism for the gate should be at least 3 inches below the top of the gate on the side facing the pool. Placing the release mechanism at this height prevents a young child from reaching over the top of a gate and releasing the latch. Also, the gate and barrier should have no opening greater than 1/2-inch within 18 inches of the latch release mechanism. This prevents a young child from reaching through the gate and releasing the latch.

Other gates should be equipped with self-latching devices. The self-latching devices should be installed as described for pedestrian gates.

How to Prevent a Child from Getting UNDER or THROUGH a Pool Barrier
In many homes, doors open directly onto the pool area or onto a patio which leads to the pool. In such cases, the wall of the house is an important part of the pool barrier, and passage through any doors in the house wall should be controlled by security measures. The importance of controlling a young child’s movement from the house to the pool is demonstrated by the statistics obtained during the CPSC’s study of pool incidents in California, Arizona and Florida. Almost half (46%) of the children who became victims of pool accidents were last seen in the house just before they were found in the pool.

All doors which give access to a swimming pool should be equipped with an audible alarm which sounds when the door and/or screen are opened. The alarm should sound for 30 seconds or more within seven seconds after the door is opened. It should also be loud, at least 85 decibels, when measured 10 feet away from the alarm mechanism. The alarm sound should be distinct from other sounds in the house, such as the telephone, doorbell and smoke alarm. The alarm should have an automatic re-set feature. Because adults will want to pass through house doors in the pool barrier without setting off the alarm, the alarm should have a switch that allows adults to temporarily de-activate the alarm for up to 15 seconds. The de-activation switch could be a touch pad (keypad) or a manual switch, and should be located at least 54 inches above the threshold of the door covered by the alarm. This height was selected based on the reaching ability of young children.
Power safety covers can be installed on pools to serve as security barriers. Power safety covers should conform to the specifications in ASTM F 1346-91. This standard specifies safety performance requirements for pool covers to protect young children from drowning. Self-closing doors with self-latching devices could also be used to safeguard doors which give ready access to a swimming pool.

Indoor Pools

When a pool is located completely within a house, the walls that surround the pool should be equipped to serve as pool safety barriers. Measures recommended above where a house wall serves as part of a safety barrier also apply for all the walls surrounding an indoor pool.

Guidelines

An outdoor swimming pool, including an in-ground, above-ground, or on-ground pool, hot tub, or spa, should be provided with a barrier which complies with the following:

1. The top of the barrier should be at least 48 inches above grade, measured on the side of the barrier which faces away from the swimming pool. The maximum vertical clearance between grade and the bottom of the barrier should be 4 inches measured on the side of the barrier which faces away from the swimming pool. Where the top of the pool structure is above grade, such as an above-ground pool, the barrier may be at ground level, such as the pool structure, or mounted on top of the pool structure. Where the barrier is mounted on top of the pool structure, the maximum vertical clearance between the top of the pool structure and the bottom of the barrier should be 4 inches.

2. Openings in the barrier should not allow passage of a 4-inch diameter sphere.

3. Solid barriers, which do not have openings, such as a masonry and stone wall, should not contain indentations or protrusions, except for normal construction tolerances and tooled masonry joints.

4. Where the barrier is composed of horizontal and vertical members, and the distance between the tops of the horizontal members is less than 45 inches, the horizontal members should be located on the swimming pool-side of the fence. Spacing between vertical members should not exceed 1-3/4 inches in width. Where there are decorative cutouts, spacing within the cutouts should not exceed 1-3/4 inches in width.

5. Where the barrier is composed of horizontal and vertical members, and the distance between the tops of the horizontal members is 45 inches or more, spacing between vertical members should not exceed 4 inches. Where there are decorative cutouts, spacing within the cutouts should not exceed 1-3/4 inches in width.

6. The maximum mesh size for chain-link fences should not exceed 1-3/4 inch square, unless the fence is provided with slats fastened at the top or the bottom which reduce the openings to no more than 1-3/4 inches.

7. Where the barrier is composed of diagonal members, such as a lattice fence, the maximum opening formed by the diagonal members should be no more than 1-3/4 inches.

8. Access gates to the pool should be equipped to accommodate a locking device. Pedestrian access gates should open outward, away from the pool, and should be self-closing and have a self-latching device. Gates other than pedestrian access gates should have a self-latching device, where the release mechanism of the self-latching device is located less than 54 inches from the bottom of the gate.
The release mechanism should be located on the pool-side of the gate at least 3 inches below the top of the gate.
The gate and barrier should have no opening greater than 1/2-inch within 18 inches of the release mechanism.
9. Where a wall of a dwelling serves as part of the barrier, one of the following should apply:

All doors with direct access to the pool through that wall should be equipped with an alarm which produces an audible warning when the door and its screen, if present, are opened. The alarm should sound continuously for a minimum of 30 seconds within seven seconds after the door is opened. The alarm should have a minimum sound pressure rating of 85 dBA at 10 feet, and the sound of the alarm should be distinctive from other household sounds, such as smoke alarms, telephones and doorbells. The alarm should automatically re-set under all conditions. The alarm should be equipped with manual means, such as touchpads or switches, to temporarily de-activate the alarm for a single opening of the door from either direction. Such de-activation should last for no more than 15 seconds. The de-activation touch pads or switches should be located at least 54 inches above the threshold of the door.
The pool should be equipped with a power safety cover which complies with ASTM F1346-91.
Other means of protection, such as self-closing doors with self-latching devices, are acceptable as long as the degree of protection afforded is not less than the protection afforded by the above.
10. Where an above-ground pool structure is used as a barrier, or where the barrier is mounted on top of the pool structure, and the means of access is a ladder or steps, then:
The ladder to the pool or steps should be capable of being secured, locked or removed to prevent access.
The ladder or steps should be surrounded by a barrier. When the ladder or steps are secured, locked, or removed, any opening created should not allow the passage of a 4-inch diameter sphere.
These guidelines are intended to provide a means of protection against potential drownings of children under 5 years of age by restricting access to residential swimming pools, spas and hot tubs.

Exemptions

A portable spa with a safety cover which complies with ASTM F1346-91 should be exempt from the guidelines presented here. Swimming pools, hot tubs, and non-portable spas with safety covers should not be exempt from these provisions.

Capstone Property Inspections.

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